This will be a month to remember for one of my favourite designers, and fellow Montrealer, Erdem Moralioglu. Along with the madness that is preparing for his upcoming spring/summer 2016 shows all around the world, September sees a series of firsts for the designer. Not only has he opened his first store after 10 years with his own label – on Mayfair’s South Audley Street, it’s a truly beautiful expression of all that his brand stands for – but he is also about to launch a collaboration with Moncler Outlet Uk, the French-Italian quilted jacket maestro.
In this playful, limited-edition collection, Erdem follows in the footsteps of Alessandra Facchinetti and Sacai’s Chitose Abe, two other lauded credible creative directors who were cannily brought on board to breathe new life into an iconic, but let’s face it, pretty simple winter staple. It’s all part of Remo Ruffini’s genius plan to resuscitate Moncler as a super brand. Previously, the puffer jacket was worn more for its snug utility than its style on the slopes. But Ruffini’s secret sauce has turned the jacket and its recognisable logo into a desirable fashion item you can wear anywhere, with a luxury price tag to boot.
Thus for the last several autumn/winter seasons, Moncler Sale has created a limited-edition capsule collection alongside the myriad of other ranges it releases (its sub-labels include Moncler Gamme Rouge, the haute couture line currently designed by Giambattista Valli and shown in Paris; Moncler Gamme Bleu, designed by Thom Browne; and Moncler Outlet Grenoble, all sitting next to the main Moncler line). The latest, unveiled in stores this month, is Erdem’s one-off capsule collection entitled Moncler E.
Eschewing Moncler’s signature utilitarian quilting, Erdem’s take on outerwear is seriously romantic and fantastical. Imagine if the Russian imperial family had made it to the 1960s instead of coming to a sticky end in the 1020s and were on a winter escapade to the Arctic, travelling in the royal carriages of the Orient Express…you get the picture.
Erdem has managed to create a dramatic outerwear range by using fabrics such as jacquard and cloqué, embellished with embroideries and sophisticated details such as Swarovski crystals; fit for a princess or even us mere mortals. Fox fur and shearling are luscious details, while the silhouettes are highly constructed shapes with clear-cut geometric lines. These pieces would have kept Nicole Kidman equally snug and stylish between takes while filming The Golden Compass.
With this collaboration, Erdem is demonstrating yet again that he is a master of storytelling. As with each of his own collections, he excels at having a fully-formed journey in his mind’s eye to serve as his imaginative starting point. That’s why it’s so exciting to be packing our suitcases and tagging along with him this September.